Eneloops would only last about 3 weeks. And disposable last 2 months. This door is used a lot and since it has Zwave and a door open sensor it sends info on every open.
Bonus, since it can handle the lipo AA batteries that put out 1.8v and it gives the motor more oomph I made the battery pack give 7.2v and it never sticks anymore.
This is a garage-door so its not critical access but is used a lot.
Well done, and I’m surprised at all the technophobes in a 3d printing community.
I mean, there has always been a correlation between being technical (as in profession/skills) and being paranoid about technology. When you are in the field, you get a window into how ignorant most of the tech products are security-wise for example. And I guess a good portion of 3d printing people - especially the ones on lemmy - are technical (as in profession/skills), not/not only tech lovers.
Considering a lock is pickable in a few seconds, what’s the security risk? A lot of these locks even dont have keys, so you’re removing a very easy and common vulnerability.
Most people just don’t actually think for themselves is the issue. Regular deadbolts aren’t secure themselves already.
Also, if the door is locked, they just break a window or kick a door in. A deadbolt isn’t a good way to secure you house regardless, you need reinforced doors and frames too. So without all these extras, what risk is an electronic deadbolt above a regular one?
Can’t have your keys stolen and your house just walked in either, so that’s MULTIPLE security avenues fixed with an electronic lock.
And very few people are going to be capable of hacking these compared to older and easier methods as well.
Yea its weird. I think its the AI and Data center hate. I am as local as I can be for my stuff and AI free. 99% of my stuff is Home Assistant, ESPhome, and Zigwave.
At this point I’m quite heavily invested in smart home tech, but smart locks are one of the few things I haven’t touched.
Any exploit found in these devices could be packaged into a smartphone app and easily accessed by anyone. Someone hacking the lock that way would look no different to a legitimate user. Firmware updates for these devices seem sporadic at best.
It’s a security concern I don’t want to have to worry about, even if there are convenience benefits.
You can buy keypad entry deadbolts that don’t connect to external wireless devices. I find they’re a good compromise between convenience and security.
Anyone can also buy lockpicks, break a window, kick the door down, my electronic lock isn’t even Bluetooth or use a phone app, so that’s not even a possibility with the majority of them.
Hacking it would require technology and skills not everyone has, there’s easier ways to get in your house than to hack it. If that’s your worry, than you better not use your deadbolt at all. It can be picked in seconds.
Unless you’ve got a reinforced door and frame, a deadbolt isn’t stopping anyone from getting in.
Sometimes IOT devices don’t make rational sense to install. This is up there with “smart” lightbulbs in terms of creating a vulnerability through convenience.
When I 3d print a plastic phone mount for my bike, that doesn’t make the base bike any easier to steal. This does make your house less secure, even though it adds utility.
Do you now know how incredibly easy it is to pick a lock?
Yes. Being a script kiddie is still much easier.
…. Than you have absolutely zero concept about how easy it is to break into a regular deadbolt. Being a script kiddie or coding is not essier. Using a bump key requires zero skill.
Think of this of more like putting a smart system on a cable bike lock. Do they need to hack it? When you can do it faster and quieter with cable cutters anyways. And that requires zero skill and a cheap $15 tool vs an expensive phone. Vagrants aren’t known for being technical and owning phones or other technology. So with yours it’s only specific people who could do it, vs anyone.
Lockpicking a door is so fucking easy that the biggest vulnerability here is the lock itself probably, you need way more skills to hack the electronic part than to lockpick the lock
Downloading an RFID/NFC spoofer app and loading a script from github?
RFID is something you will not hack with a phone app and anyway you need to know what values the RFID/NFC reader on the other side wants and that’s if the the lock has NFC or RFID technologies and not something else
Creating programmable cards is exactly what we did at uni using an android app and a peripheral lol
(Including getting into utility rooms back when the security was an afterthought)
Yes but did you made an NFC or an RFID? As much as i know, most phones have only partial(eg: only reading) or no support to RFID
And again, you’d need to know what the reader on the door want, you cannot just give it any random data and hope it works, i could accept only an encoded password in SHA-256 and you would not be able to do much really, there are probably ways to break thru but at that point is faster and easier to lockpick the door
NFC with solely the phone, RFID using an android app and with a programmer attached via USB.
So long as it has a physical backup and can stay on my network I’m happy. I also need low power draw to stay bellow my 20w idle power budget but that’s a me problem.
If anyone has a vertically mounted stainless steel option with a keypad to recommend I’m all ears!
I’m curious about your power budget. Does that include appliances like water heater, fridge, etc? Or is it just for smart devices?
I’m really impressed by your efficiency. My router alone draws over half your budget. Add the cable modem and a 5GbE switch and that takes me 50% overbudget. And that’s just network infrastructure. With everything else in my apartment I’m probably somewhere around 800w, pessimistically.
That would be all 12v devices that run 24/7. So without the fridge compressor, water desalinator, 120v cooking appliances (when I have a surplus of solar and don’t use propane) and the hot water tank (although during the winter I heat water using a 4w pump and heat exchanger on my wood stove). I guess my work laptop isn’t included in there but I do my computing on a VPS since anything but a low power laptop puts a noticeable drain on my power reserves.
I run off 660w of solar so that’s why I’m so limited. Network runs off a portable open-wrt router plus a LTE hotspot (5G sucks at sea level in my experience) and most smart things are done on my Victron Cerbo GX.
During the summer I generate about 53kW/month and use about 74kW/month. The difference comes from a small generator and the times I run my diesel engine to get around and the 70A alternator charges the batteries.
So my average is ~100w all in.