• 15 Posts
  • 33 Comments
Joined 4 months ago
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Cake day: January 27th, 2026

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  • Smaller chainsaws can be more dangerous than bigger ones, watch out for kickbacks and learn how to use a chainsaw properly so you don’t mangle yourself up. Do not get fooled by the lack of noise from an electric chainsaw, they can still fuck you up

    Having said that, yes, you’ll be able to handle them more easily. I don’t know enough about that brand to comment on it, but as you said, you already have a bunch of batteries available for it. Watch your footing and have an understanding of possible tension and compression forces on those limbs

    But do you really need it? Are debris a common occurrence on your hike? I won’t deny chainsaws can be useful to have around, but you mentioned it would only be used on the trail and you already have a sawsaw

    Btw, which blade are you using on your sawsaw? You might want to get a pruning blade if you are using a standard carpentry blade, as they can be way faster too









  • Yeah, it might be a good idea to check if the downspout isn’t partially clogged. I don’t know how high that building is, but around here, leaves can get in there every once in a while

    If you haven’t checked yet, you might also want to see the abutment flashing (see #7 below) where that wall and roof meet, as water might be percolating in that area and getting trapped between the ceiling/drywall/insulation.

    I’d also check the other flashings as well while you are at it and if that drywall and insulation on that affected area are damp, remove them for venting

    I can’t tell too much from the pictures, nor feel and test the wood. You mentioned the plaster was soft, but what about the wood? Are there mycelium growth in it?

    Check if the wood is dark, mushy, deformed, poke test it with a knife/awl/screwdriver, as wood with advanced decay will be soft and the probe will penetrate easily. How far does it go? How big is the beam? Do you know what kind of wood is it? Test in multiple areas

    Tear up a more of the plaster to check how the rest of the beam looks like and test them. If it is less than 0.3 cm, venting might be enough

    Another one is the pick test, where you insert the knife beneath the wood grain to pry loose a thin section of it till it breaks free. If you get a long linear splinter, itś most likely good, if it comes out as crumbly chunks or short pieces with a mushy sound, it is not ideal.

    If you are in a dry season and no rain in sight, I’d clean both inside and outside areas to let them vent. Get a fan/dehumidifier/open windows in that room.

    I also prefer breathable buildings, so you could use a more traditional breathable plaster, which allows water to easily evaporate over time, whereas concrete and all the PVA might help trap the moisture. It is typically made from lime and/or clay, sand, and water. You can also add fibers (horse hair or plant fibers) for strength



  • I’m no specialist, but I’ll give my two cents. Anyone feel free to correct me if I’m wrong or a better approach is available

    1. Yes, even galvanized steel will eventually rust when directly in contact with the ground and it was accelerated by the salty air from the coastal region. It also rusts faster in high humidity air/soil. Even after sealing the roof, it will rust again from capillary humidity from the soil if laid directly against it

    2. Concrete or rock footing around 10-20cm above ground level is what I usually see, make sure the water drains and it isn’t pooling between footing and post. Those stirrups are usually galvanized steel, but if your post is already galvanized steel, I guess it wouldn’t make sense in your case

    3. Based on the first image, if you were to use a concrete footing above ground, you might even be able to salvage this post, as the two screw holes look unrusted on the picture, and they seem to be around the level you’d need to cut. You might need to grind down the area and look on the inside to confirm it. If it is, you won’t even need new brackets

    Otherwise, yes, a local shop will probably have some 90° brackets and bolts too. Keep in mind to accommodate the requirements for hurricane/flood/frost if your region is prone to it





  • They are already doing that, they even have a playbook on how to try to protect them, but apparently, “Physical protection is a set of structural measures that do not guarantee the safety of protected objects. Solutions do not exclude blast load and shrapnel impact.”

    Inside Rosneft’s Secret Drone Defense Blueprint: How Russia’s Oil Giant Plans to Shield Its Refineries – and Why It Will Fail

    Solution What It Is Rosneft’s Own Admitted Weakness
    Cable barriers around tanks Cable/net mesh (40×40 cm) wrapped around storage tanks on pipe stands “NOT resistant to UAV shrapnel”; only protects against multirotor drones
    Scaffolding cages Modular metal scaffolding erected 5m above tank roofs “Insufficient volume of scaffolding to protect the Company’s facilities”; “high cost”
    Shipping container walls 20-36m high walls from stacked 20/40-ft containers with cable infill at 40 cm spacing Not yet pilot-tested; requires thousands of containers per refinery
    “Tent” canopy over tank farms Overhead cable-mesh tent using containers as structural supports (21m central mast) “Difficulties during firefighting”; “high snow loads”
    Tower crane mast cages Repurposed crane sections forming 4-pillar cage around processing units, cables at 1m spacing Each unit requires individual engineering; relies on surface foundations or guy-wires
    Three-barrier column protection Layer 1: cable screens 1-1.5m out from platforms; Layer 2: nets (40×40 mm mesh); Layer 3: kevlar/aramid wrapping In case of detonation, destruction is inevitable
    Cable fencing for pump stations 6mm cables at 500mm spacing on outrigger brackets Only designed to destroy drone airframe — does nothing against the warhead
    Reinforced concrete panels Reinforced Concrete wall panels replacing sheet-metal wind barriers at pump stations Only covers pump stations — the narrowest, lowest-value target category